Openwork Status Cloth
DR Congo, Kuba Bushong people
First half, 20th century
Raffia, natural dyes; openwork and embroidery
66 x 61 cm (26 x 24 ins)
From an old Belgian collection
Although this refined panel has the format of a Kuba status cloth (and may deliberately evoke that style), it was most likely made as one component for either a long male titleholder’s ceremonial skirt or the shorter woman’s dance overskirt. However, it does not appear to have ever been sewn to any other panels to make one of those textiles and may have just been displayed as an individual prestige cloth, complete in itself.
The sophisticated textural design emerges from the layering, combination and contrast of surface techniques and dimensional effects. An openwork weave juxtaposes narrow slits of zigzagging, drawn thread work in black and tan with tiny circles embellished with stitching to create the punctiform squares at the heart of the geometric diamond pattern that is overlaid on the cloth with linear embroidery. The transparent structure, golden color and subtle relief enhance this beautiful play of light and shadow.
SOLD
